Last Sunday, my nephew and I visited Carn Euny Fogou and ancient Ironage village settlement. It was a grey, foggy day and the normally clear views from village to ocean and Scilly beyond were veiled in mist, yet one can still appreciate the defensive position of the village nestled protectively in the lee of Caer Bran Hill fort, commanding a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape and coast on the ley of the ancient trackway that once led from Lands End to St Michael's mount. Carn Euny's secret is its Fogou; an underground passageway complete with a 'creep' and 'beehive' hut. The fogou offered welcome retreat from the now steadily falling rain as we entered its depths- an experience as close to entering the womb of the Earth Mother as I can imagine and one which powerfully affects one's psyche. The passageway was particularly dank and flooded half way with muddy water. The massive granite roofing slabs overhead and green walls are a powerful presence and the floor slopes downwards so it is literally like walking into the underworld.
The beehive hut attached by a small entrance to the passageway is dated earlier than the fogou and is approximately a few decades to several centuries older poss 500BC. The fogou itself is believed to date from before 380BC-250BC - when charcoal found under the floor of the North eastern end of the passageway was carbondated it fixed a date for use if not construction. My nephew and I pondered on the use of the fogou and hut: possibilities are a grain store, a place to shelter from attack or a ritual space. Sitting there in the dark and muffled space we could not imagine any grain stored here would survive storage in this damp; as for a place of refuge, once discovered you would find it difficult to survive any attack and there was the possibility that you could easily be trapped down there. We both sensed a ceremonial purpose..the curving entrance down into the dark so like the entrance to the womb and the muffled hushed space ideal for gatherings of a ritual and mysterious nature.One can imagine circles of people crouched in the dark of the beehive hut and torches lighting the passageway as well as the sun returning to light the chambers and fill the dark with light at key points in the wheel.Ian Cooke a local artist and historian discovered that the tunnel was directly alligned to the Midsummer Solstice.
We shall never know for sure and that is the gift of this place that is does not offer up its secrets readily. All we could do was ponder and that pause was significant enough.I had taken my nephew away from his computer games and Facebook to this ancient village, this elemental place softened by mud, mist and mystery and there he was pondering on his ancestors and finding space to be alone with the soul of the land.He left eager for more, vitalised and energetic, his cheeks ruddy and his boots wet with rain and mud. He stopped by the ruins of the dilapidated granite cottage on the site and started imagining picnics he could enjoy here with his family when the sun shone....ancient memories of tribal family gatherings....the spot is perfect for a picnic on a warm summer's day with the sun melting beneath teh Atlantic waves on a sparkling sea......from darkness to light and from ancient mystery to acts of imagination...
